NEW WINES FROM BECKY WASSERMAN IMPORTS

Joel Butler 3.25 6.21.2025

A long time, quite reliable importer of Burgundy wines (principally) since the late 70’s, Becky Wasserman Imports recently showcased a number of new arrivals to our market in Seattle. Becky, a US ex-pat, moved to Burgundy in 1968, and developed strong relationships with various (at the time) often unknown fine wine producers, mainly growers, many of whom I also had developed friendships with at the time, including Dominque Lafon, Christophe Roumier and others. I met Becky and her partner/3rd spouse, Russell Hone, around 1983-84, I believe (memories are hazy), while I was working with a local Burgundy broker who facilitated our company’s importing and selection of wines from the region as well as the Rhone Valley.

Lafon even worked with Becky early on, helping her understand the Burgundy wine trade, developing producer relationships and figuring out the insane bureaucratic system for exporting wines to the US and elsewhere a new company had little understanding of. (He had spent time working for a winery in the Bay Area a few years prior, where I first met him).

Over the years Becky helped cultivate an atmosphere of cooperation, shared learnings, and improvement of wine-growing among some of the most important family producers in the region, thus fostering today’s focused portfolio of fine producers, mostly family-run, practicing ‘low-tech’ wine production, and no longer just in Burgundy.

The company, originally based out of Becky and Russell Hone’s house in the small hamlet of Bouilland in the hills above Savigny Les Beaune, is now run by Becky’s long-time partner, Russell Hone, and her two sons, Paul and Peter, and has moved to larger quarters in Beaune, itself. Over the years, Wasserman Imports has developed a stable of fine wine producers outside of Burgundy, extending to Italy and Germany as well as other regions of France, though Burgundy remains the heart and soul of the company.

In a long article noting Becky’s accomplishments, and tribulations over a long career (she passed away in 2021), Margaret Rand[World of Fine Wine, 9/16/21] noted that “Her view of what such wines should be—which encompassed purity, no chemicals, honesty, and good farming—meant that those were the sort of domaines she sought for her négociant business, and meant that that ideal prevailed. Her comment was that, ‘The only people who would work with me were people who didn’t export, so in that sense the punishment fitted the crime.’ Yet it wasn’t achieved through financial muscle or effective PR; it was through honesty, extreme hard work and, one must infer, a great talent for selling.” I agree.

Today’s tasting included many lesser known, perhaps even relatively new producers in the Wasserman portfolio, from many places, which made it especially interesting to me. The notes below reflect the open-minded curiosity and appreciation for craftsmen wine-growers from often obscure places and varieties (Gringet in Savoie?). While I was not enamored of every wine, overall quality is high and the wines selected by the current team offer real choice and typicity.

What many do NOT offer is great value, if Value is defined by a reasonable price relative to the quality and style of the wine in question. In some cases, especially Burgundy, ‘Good Value’ wines are no longer available or possible. The average price of even a simple Bourgogne Rouge or Blanc, let alone a ‘Village’ wine (e.g. Beaune or Gevrey Chambertin) is now over $35-40. Village wines from a good village such as those noted in previous sentence run $60-90, a price that not even a decade ago were priced 30-45% less. Inflation over decades accounts for some of this increase, but the costs of Burgundy have risen far more, and faster than the income inflation during the same period.

If one wants to drink fine chardonnay or pinot noir on a ‘semi-regular’ basis (pinot noir cannot be cheap from a quality growing region due to its delicate nature, generally low yields and need for careful handling), one must now look to certain areas, and producers, in the US, New Zealand and Australia, which (unfortunately) are also seeing inflationary pressure.

The bigger problem for these inflated prices in the US market is only partially the higher costs of production for estates, especially if farming organically (though it is a significant factor). And I am not singling out Wasserman Imports here; the problem is global. An important contributor to the problem is the sclerotic, antiquated distribution of wine in the US dictated by the 21^st Amendment’s required three tier system. I have noted in prior posts how the cost to the consumer of a wine at its origin in France, for example, is often the cost per bottle an exporter/importer to the US pays ex-cellars. By the time that wine goes through the importer’s hands, then those of the state or local distributer, then the retail store (forget the restaurants for the moment!), that bottle now costs you and me about 250%+ more. Every hand along the way here takes its cut (25-50%). Additionally there are shipping costs ($1-2/bottle), taxes (US is negligible, but some states like WA are pretty high).

Thus, a good, solid quality wine from even a basic appellation noted for dependable, delicious ‘daily’ wines such as Côtes du Rhone or Dolcetto d’Alba costing €4-5 ends up being $14-20 on the retail shelf here in most states. While that price is tolerable, which is why these wines are still relatively ‘good value’ from a domestic perspective, the same margins dictate that a solid high quality Beaune rouge for €20 locally costs you and me $50-60. Hardly a value.

The Three tier system has its value, given the size of our country and the fact that each state makes its own rules governing alcohol distribution and regulations, complicating the overall system of getting wine from Point A to Point B. All this is to suggest that certain places and certain wines, can no longer be considered as Good Values. Burgundy is one such place. But there-in lies the problem. Some of the wines below, while very tasty and stylish, the prices suggest that producers believe their wines are both undervalued and underpriced. Maybe they should be the next big thing, and some importers (not to mention critics/wine experts) feel the same way. And thus, the prices charged are inflated, disregarding the lack of recognition, appeal, or style the wines represent.

I don’t have a practical answer to getting around the Three Tier system, which certainly contributes to the problem of making Good Value, affordable wines available to more Americans. There is a lot of ‘capital’, political and economic, at stake. Too many hands being greased, as it were! On the other hand, I don’t know how an open borders, tariff-free, easy delivery system for alcohol like that of the EU could work here, given the huge distances for shipping involved and the Balkanized set of rules currently active in the US.

The System also acts against domestic wines, too, since wineries are in many states, forced to sell first to a distributor, then a local retailer to get to the end consumer, instead of being able to sell directly to that consumer in another state (even the same state, sometimes).

So, you will note in several reviews below my comments about the pricing being way too high, even where quality is very fine/excellent (**) or better. This is not a critique of Wasserman’s policies, or the price growers charge; they deserve as much as possible given the efforts they make in an increasingly costly environment. I am bringing up the issue with this newsletter merely in the context of appealing to both producers and consumers that realistic pricing and recognition should be regarded as important factors in marketing the wines, especially in markets like ours in the US where there is a huge plethora of options available.

The idea of wine in America as something which should be pure and affordable to most everyone is less and less a reality. Today, wine is a luxury item where the ‘best’ wines are only affordable to the rich, while wines of little renown are often marketed as the ‘next best thing’, due to small production, a good story and unusual variety. There may be no record of consistency and recognition (outside of local), which basically means that we the consumer are paying (a lot!) for a marketing experiment.

All of the above duly noted, I strongly recommend to you the wines from Wasserman Imports. If you go to their website and sub-section: https://www.beckywasserman.com/by-importer/- You can find their local distributor in your area. There are many now famous names, to be sure, but as the tasting notes below attest, a number of lesser-known producers are making fine wines, that Wasserman has sourced for exportation.

My comments above are not directed against Wasserman Imports specifically. They developed from observations made at the tasting of their wines, based upon the range of wines and prices exhibited, which gave cause to bringing up the issues involved that I have long stewed over in my career in wine.

Prices below are average retail prices.

NB: Abbreviations as follows; FO= French oak (barrels, casks etc); MLF=Malolactic Fermentation; PN= Pinot Noir; M or m=Meters; CS= Cabernet Sauvignon; CF=Cabernet Franc; GG= Grosse Gewächs (Great growth/Grand Cru, referring to top single vineyard sites in Germany for dry wines); NSG= Nuits St. George ; VV= Vieilles Vignes/Old Vines; MC=Methode Champenoise or Classique; i.e. bottle fermented; HL=hectolitre (100 liters, +26 gallons); gl/RS= grams/liter residual sugar.

George Noëllat/Aime Cheurlin 2022 Haute Cote de Nuits PN. Solid medium ruby, hint violet. Black cherry, solidly savory bouquet. Fairly rich, meaty blackfruit and brambly (?) flavors with moderate tannins and crunchy vivid fruit. Not cheap but high quality and intense flavors. Good balance and class. Now-2029 13% ** $44

George Noëllat/Aime Cheurlin 2022 Nuits St Georges Nuits St George PN Average vine age 50 years, partial whole cluster fermentation, . 4-8 day cold maceration, 2-3 week ambient ferment. 14-20 months in 30-40% new FO. Medium ruby color. Fine smoky-savory, cedar and black cherry bouquet with earthy/loam accents. Very typical NSG meaty, firm medium bodied palate. Solid, dark fruit flavors with fine if insistent tannins. Good freshness and length. Serious NSG- lots of character; near 1er Cru fruit focus like 10-20 years ago (sauvage?), but Village wine and too $$. But excellent. Now-2032 13% ** $96

George Noëllat/Aime Cheurlin 2022 Gevrey Chambertin en Champs VV, Gevrey Chambertin Average Vine age 65 years. Vyd. below Les Champeaux, middle of east-facing slope on cooler, limestone- oolitic soils (small spherical stones). All whole cluster fermented, 18-21 days cuvaison with ambient yeast. 18 months in 40% new FO. barrels. Medium ruby, touch violet. Savory, roasted meat, blackfruit and dark cherry bouquet with hint of black pepper and some new oak spiciness. Sweeter tannins, more length, if still firm, dense palate like NSG. More length and more aggressive, compact structure. Rich and intense youthful finish. Lovely and dense with a longer mineral, dark fruit finish. Complex and structured, 1er Cru level. Pricy, but this may merit the cost if aged long enough. Now-2033. 13% **+ $120

Oolitic stones taken out of Gevrey Chambertin Combes aux Moines 1er Cru (JBMW)

Dom. Jean Noël Gagnard/Caroline L'Estime 2019 Cremant de Bourgogne, Grand Lys Extra Brut, Cremant de Bourgogne PN from Hautes Côtes de Beaune, 300-400 m altitude on limestone and white marl soil. MC, aged on lees 3-5 years, hand riddled. Pale gold. Rich, floral, yeast-brioche champagne-like bouquet and concentration. Crisp, fresh, citrus, ripe apple flavors. Nutty, yet great fruit detail. Fine rich mid-palate with red currant finish. Serious Blanc de Noir. Good NV Champagne style/quality! Price a bit high, but so is quality and character. Now-2030+ 12% **+ $59

Caroline L’Estime (née Gagnard) sampling from a barrel of Chassage at her family’s cellars, 1995 (JBMW)

Dom. Jean Noël Gagnard/Caroline L'Estime 2022 Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc ‘sous Eguisons’, Haute Côtes de Beaune Chardonnay. From La Rochepot, west edge of St Aubin, moderate slope, SE-facing 440m. Limestone soil, derived from colluvial deposits. Ambient ferment and MLF+ in used barrels. Aged 12-15 months in 33% new FO barrels. Pale green-gold straw. Fine, nut/lees, lightly reduced thiol notes at first, then a hint of apricot skin aromas. Medium body, ripe fruit with smoky-sweet flavors hinting of white peach but no marzipan like a white Rhone. Pure, stony (stone!) fruit finish. More depth than most Hautes Côtes white wines; reasonable, considering location near upper side of St Aubin above Puligny Montrachet. Plush yet fresh, with fine yellow fruit finish and good acidity. Not bad- pure and solid quality for market price. Now-2029 12.50% ** $51

Dom. Jean Noël Gagnard/Caroline L'Estime 2020 Haute Côtes de Beaune Rouge “Clos Bortier’, Haute Côtes de Beaune Above St Aubin, below sous Eguisons, PN planted in 1950s at 430 m, south-facing. Destemmed. 12-15 cuvaison with ambient yeast, light extraction through hand pigeage. Aged 8-10 months in 80% tank, and 20% older barrels. Now-2028. Medium ruby with clear rim. Herby, stem-resin and savory aromas. A bit lean on finish with moderate tannins, firm acidity. Not particularly long, with some fruit missing in mid-palate for balance. Ok, but too $$ Now-2027 12.50% *- $42

Domaine Benjamin Leroux, 2022 Meursault Planted 1944-77 from Les Criots, Au Moulin Landin, Les Millerands, Bois de Blagny vineyards, vinified separately. Whole cluster press, ambient ferment, aged 12-15 in 5-15% new FO, 3hl-6hl barrels, then racked and aged 4-6 months more in tank. Strongly reduced nose at first/sulphury, but then after a minute or so, bouquet opens up. White peach, apple and lees accented creamy bouquet. Solid fruit, rich texture, balanced acidity and balanced by judicious oak spice & vanilla. Stylish and rich. Good backbone and VG modern Meursault, but too $$ a Village wine for us mortals! Now-2030 13% ** $125

Domaine Benjamin Leroux, 2022 Savigny les Beaune Planted 1955-90, from three different sites with sandy-clay soils; Les Saucours, Aux Fournaux, En Connardises. 10-15% whole cluster ferment, with two week cuvaison (fermentation plus maceration time) with ambient yeasts. Aged 14 months in 10% new FO barrels. Medium ruby, hint violet. Pretty floral, cherry, violet and blackcurrant bouquet. Solid fruit intensity with good density and firm if ripe tannins held together by firm crunchy acidity. Moderately long finish. Not good value, but very solid, classic SLB, with earthy-rustique character. Now -2031 13% ** $69

Domaine Benjamin Leroux, 2022 Pommard Blend of Les Cras, Les Vaumuriens & 1er cru La Platière, all destemmed. 15 day cuvaison, ambient yeasts. Aged 18 months in 30% new FO. Medium ruby, hint violet. Fine meaty-savory, black fruit bouquet with a hint of savory spiciness; perhaps a touch of vanilla-resin oak spice and herbiness!. Medium tannins. Good acidity. Medium body flavors with minty oak on finish. Complex, stylish lovely vintage with rich yet fresh, even sleek character for Pommard!. Expensive, but classy Village wine. Now-2032 13% **(+) $110

Domaine Marcel Deiss 2023 Complantation Blanc ,Alsace A complex blend of Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Muscat, Gewurz, Sylvaner, Auxerrois, Pinot Beurot, Muscat Ottonel, Traminer, Chasselas Rosé. Biodynamic production. All Planted between 1980-2010, all from Bergheim vineyards, including some young vine 1er cru parcels. Whole cluster pressed, ambient yeast ferment, aged 12 months sur lie in tank. Fine, rich, honey-brioche, almond paste bouquet. Medium + body. Full flavors revealing honied, blanched almond and light pomegranate flavors-almost candied, yet dry finish with grippy phenolic crunch lending texture and authority. Wonderful blend . Good Value. Now-2029 13.5% ** $30

Domaine Marcel Deiss 2023 Ribeauvillé , Alsace 65% Riesling, 20% Sylvaner, 15% Pinot Blanc From various vineyard plots in Ribeauvillé, most on middle Jurassic fossil limestone soils mixed with clay, along with younger sandstone/gravels. Made similarly to above. Stonier, more fruit driven bouquet with crisper fruit, solid citricity and longer, if leaner razor’s-edge finish. Alcohol not a problem. Quite crisp, and more like a classy Austrian Kamptal Riesling on finish. Lengthy, tasty, fair price. Now-2033 14% ** $37

Ribeauvillé town, looking down from above a vineyard trail leading to Les Trois Chateaux, with vineyards extending to Hunawihr in the distance (JBMW)

Weingut Rudolf Fürst 2023 Pur Mineral Riesling, Franken Planted 1975 & 2012 on steep south facing slope (35%)260m average elevation on Triassic, iron-rich sandstone. Light crushing before press, ambient ferment, aged 8-10 months in foudres, no MLF, Organic. Some SO2 still in nose at first. Vibrant and fresh, crisp, very structured firm flavors dash from attack to finish. Solid citrus-stone flavors. good length and pretty dry. Very fine mineral-driven Riesling. Now-2032 11.50% ** $30

Weingut Rudolf Fürst 2022 Astheimer Chardonnay, Franken Planted in 1999, 2006, 2012, in center of Franken on Main River at 250m on stony, limestone gravel soils. Made as above, though 50% whole cluster pressed, Full MLF, but aged 12 months in barriques and 5hl tonneaux, and aged after racking another 4 months in tank. Medium yellow-green. Strong, thiol, mineral, lightly nutty lees-infused nutty-chalky bouquet. Ripe fullish flavors with nicely balanced interplay between fresh acidity, ripe orchard fruit, and lightly nutty lees-inflection towards finish. Quite focused, character-laden Chardonnay from unexpected source! Too $$ but very good. Now-2028 12.50% **- $65

Mature vines in a Franken vineyard above Main River, with Asteim vineyards, upper left below the town. (JBMW)

Weingut Rudolf Fürst 2022 Grossheubacher Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) , Franken Planted 1969/2016. A 'village wine from a GG vineyard; Bischofsberg. (When vines mature it will be designated GG.) Iron-rich, stony, red sandstone with loess soils. 20-45% slope, 200-250m elevation. Ambient ferment, 50% whole cluster, aged 17 months in used FO barrels, with no racking until bottling. Medium ruby to clear rim. Strong, savory-red berry aromas with cherry/blood orange accents; vivid and out-going! Then, some faint hints of resin, oak spice, even heathery herbs. Solid medium body weight. Rich yet fresh fruit with fine-grained tannins and judicious oak in finish. Stylish, balanced, with GG pricing but not yet the depth and length of real older vine wine. Nicely done if it were $30-35, but too $$ at $60. Quality is good, with fine future, assuring ageing potential. Now-2030 13% **(-) $60

Domaine Gringet 2019 Les Perles du Mont Blanc Brut Nature, Savoie Gringet grape. Thirty months sur lie aging, no dosage; vines on yellow and white marl (limestone 'nuggets' mixed in soil.) Pale color. Light lees, toasty bouquet. Classy flavors, good mineral quinine flavors with a hint of orange and pomegranate fruit in finish. Solid, but too $$ and less complex compared to something like Gagnard Grand Lys Cremant de Bourgogne. Now-2028 12.50% *+ $65

Domaine Gringet 2022 Vers Etraz, Savoie Gringet. Vers Etraz is a south-facing limestone scree-laced vineyard. Strong thiol, reduced sulphury nose at first, which doesn't really blow off much with aeration. Nutty, mid-weight stone, nut, somewhat flattish earthy flavors (aged in concrete). Not much here and clearly too $$. 12.50% *- $57

Domaine Gringet 2022 Chez Eduard, Savoie Gringet planted in 1914 (before 'Eduard' left for war). Highest vineyard in AOC at 620m. South-facing, limestone scree soils. Crystalline, clear, fresh mineral-oil bouquet with strong zesty flavors. Distinctive, long finish and elegant flavors; classy and distinctive, if only light-medium bodied. Still, just overpriced IMHO, for what it is. Now-2030 12.50% ** $87

Domaine Gringet 2022 Les Feu, Savoie Gringet grown on iron rich red marl/clay slope. Richer, more minerally, less closed and flat on nose; cf. vers Etraz above. Lively, bright fresh flavors with fine acidity and length, even a saline mineral finish, with some ferrous accents. Quite good and distinctive as above, but also too $$. Now-2030. 12.50% **- $87

Domaine Antoine Sanzay 2021 Saumur Blanc, ‘Les Salles Martin’, Saumur Blanc Chenin Blanc. Vines planted 1990s in St Cyr-en--Bourg, SE-facing sandy-silt soils. Ambient ferments, aged 18 months sur lie in 300-600 liter barrels, used. Light filtration. <2 gl/RS. Pale yellow green color. Faintly stony aromas with green pear and subtle TDN (petrol) accents. Well textured palate with crunchy pear - mineral flavors leading to a delicately astringent, firm, long finish. Very tasty, serious Loire Chenin,. Now-2031 12.50% ** $48

Domaine Antoine Sanzay 2021 Saumur Champigny ‘Le Poyeaux ‘, Saumur Champigny Cab Franc planted 1960's, on an early ripening site with clay-limestone soils. De-stemmed, ambient yeast 25 day ferment in concrete vats, then aged for 18 months in oak vat and barriques. Fine, medium + ruby, no purple. Violet, floral, earthy and perfumed bouquet. Medium body. Slightly resiny (cedary-herbal) flavors with velvet tannins & good acidity for freshness. Stylish lightly gamy-savory finish with hint of CF graphite. Very accurate Saumur Champigny mineral-savory character with fine acid balance and good length, if on the expensive side? I would love to see somewhat greater fruit concentration (extract) to warrant the price. Now-2031 13% **- $60

Chateau de Plaisance 2022 Anjou ‘Sur la Butte’, Anjou Rouge 50-50 CS, CF--CS planted in 1970s, CF in 2012 on two parcels on the Chaume hill; the only vineyards in the AOC Quarts du Chaume with red grapes, hence Anjou Rouge. South exposure on schistous soils. De-stemmed, ambient ferment, aged 9 months in concrete tanks. Biodynamic. Darker ruby violet to above Sanzay wine. Herbal tea, hint violet and berry aromas. Medium body. Crunchier palate with more tannins, firmer finish and spicier if less rich and textured fruit flavors to above,. Young vine freshness comes through. Not real complex, but pretty good value. Now-2028. 14% *+ $30

Chateau de Plaisance 2020 Anjou ‘Grand Lopin’, Anjou Rouge 60CS, 40CF. From a single parcel on Chaumes hill, facing south, with spilite over schist bedrock. Three week maceration, aged in 2-3 year barrels for 11 months. 2020 was a difficult vintage, FYI. Dark ruby, no purple. Spicy-floral, violet berry herbal bouquet with cedary accents. Firm earthy style, older vines intensity with fairly strong tannin. Cedary, loamy -savory flavors with cassis and Cab Franc black tea notes and some overt acidity on finish. This betrays under-mature fruit. An imposing wine with clear quality potential, but let's see a fine vintage! $$ Now-2028. 12.5% * $89

Domaine Roc des Anges 2022 Iglesia Vella, Roussillon (Latour de France) Grenache Gris. All biodynamic farming and planted in 1954 on schist-rocky soils. Whole cluster press. Ambient ferment, no SO2 additions until bottling. Ferment in various size oak. Low pH, but generally full MLF. Faint pink color. Fairly rich rose, but also lacking in 'snap'! Seems a bit tired already. and way too $$$ 12.50% Not rated $58

Dmaine Roc des Anges 2022 ‘L'Oca’ (goose), Roussillon (Latour de France) Macabeu (aka Viura) planted 1917-1957 on red clay with schist. Whole cluster pressed. Ambient ferment, no SO2 addition, aged in larger sized barrels. No MLF usually. Yellow Green color. Smoky, thiol, nutty -earthy bouquet with yellow plum (?) accents. Lightly floral, mineral/stone, medium rich flavors. good length. Shows a fine earthy palate and depth of character. Expensive, but different, and well made. Intriguing wine! Now-2027. 12.50% ** $58

Domaine Roc des Anges 2021 ‘Isabal’, Côtes Catalanes Carignan planted 1913 on schist. Ambient yeast ferment for a week in closed concrete tanks, then pressed and racked back to tank to finish ferment. No temperature control. No punch down or pumpovers. Aged only in tank. Dark ruby, violet reflex. Medium body. Floral, blackberry, redcurrant and spicy dark plum flavors/aromas with some cedariness. Mediium body. Solid fruit. Refined, moderate tannins framed sweet berry fruit with a fine touch of graphite and cassis on finish. Lovely balanced and long finish-shows how serious old vine Carignan can be. A bit pricey, but this is very cool wine. Now-2032 12.5% **(+) $75

Roero Landscape near Canale (JBMW)

Az Ag Bricco Ernesto 2022 Bianco Roero DOC Arneis variety. Short skin maceration (?hrs/days) then 2.5-4 week ambient yeast ferment and aged 9 months in 50% amphorae and 50% larger Slavonian barrels with full MLF. Copper-amber color. Earthy, if relatively clean neutral bouquet at first. Some dried peach/apricot skin accents slowly arise from glass. Medium body. Solid, ripe, nutty peachy, almond skin flavors. Good weight and solid acidity to lift the freshness. Very well made, though lacks the lovely Arneis perfume due to oxidizing production method. A bit too $$, however. Now-2027. 12% **- $76

Az Ag Bricco Ernesto 2021 Rebellious Nature Rosso, Vino da Piemonte Barbera, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Bonarda. A multi-region blend; Roero Vyd planted to Nebbiolo & Barbera on sandy soils. Sangiovese from Emilia Romagna planted on clay-limestone. Varieties harvested within 2 days of each other, de-stemmed, not crushed. Ambient yeast co-ferment in concrete. Aged 8-12 months in used FO/AO/Austrian barrels. Medium ruby, hint garnet. Nose shows less fruit, more alcohol fumy notes, but wine has fairly firm palate with moderate tannins, dark red fruit and light graphite flavors, almost CF-like on finish. Alcohol heat appears lightly on finish. Interesting wine, not sure of its appeal, especially at price! Now-2026. 15% *- $49

Az Ag Bricco Ernesto 2022 Vino Rosso, Piemonte Nebbiolo planted (Roero) in 1950, 1999, 2018 on70% sand, 20% silt and 10% clay soils. Whole berry fermentation with ambient yeast for nearly a month in cement tanks, aged for a year in barrels, casks, and amphorae. Garnet ruby. Earthy, weedy-sour cherry earthy bouquet. Fairly firm flavors with medium body, fine tannins though some edginess on finish. Not especially complex, though reminiscent of Monforte Baroli of two+ decades ago. Too $$. Shows reasonable balance and length, but...somewhat astringent and short finish. Now-2030. 14% *+ $90