Italy's Distinctive Native Grapes, an A-Z – M is for...Montepulciano & Malvasia Nera &... ?

Joel Butler MW 3.27 7.6.2025

I have not expounded about a favorite subject, Italy’s myriad Native and/or Indigenous varieties lately, but now that we are mid-way through the alphabet at ‘M’, well as the Italians would say, “C’é un sacco di vitigni iniziando alla lettera ‘M’ (There’s a shit-ton of varieties beginning with M).

Just to give you an idea of the choices, not including varieties like Merlot which has been in Italy for at least 250 years, we have: Magliocco (various), Malvasia (Nera, bianca, di Candia, di Lazio, Rosa etc), Mammolo, Mantonico, Manzoni Bianco, Marzemino & Marzemina (don’t ask!), Mayolet, Minnella, Minutolo, Molinara, Monica, Montepulciano and a slew of Moscatos of varying color and character! (thanks to the index of varieties in Ian d’Agata’s encyclopedic Native Wine Grapes of Italy, 2014)

Deciding which one or two to focus upon comes down to a question of a) popularity; b) intrinsic quality; c) likelihood of finding and d) distinctive character (i.e. what does the grape bring to the party?).

Looking at this list from the POV of my points a-d above:

a. For popularity, whether customer or producer, Montepulciano & the Moscato family stand out, with various Malvasia trailing somewhat.

b. Intrinsically, and more subjectively, the potentially finest of these varieties are certain of the Moscato family, such as Moscato Rosa & Bianco, Mantonico Bianco, Montepulciano, Minutolo

c. Here, finding many of these is not easy, since many like the various Monicas, Malvasias, Mammolo & Molinara are more often minor bits of a blend. The reality is that Moscato Giallo & Bianco, Montepulciano, Malvasia (di Lazio & Candia though not stated as such but key elements for Rome’s Frascati) & Marzemino are relatively easily found on shelves. Just for the idea of it, I noted on the old map below where some of these “M’s” are at home in Italy.

d. So finally, it comes down to which of these varieties brings something interesting, unique, or frankly, just plain tasty, to the party? Some of the varieties are known by different names, depending on location, and/or have many different ‘biotypes’ or localized names, Malvasia this, Malvasia that, etc. They are not necessarily the same grape, so it can be confusing, the ‘M’s!

For the purposes of this article, I chose to offer the obvious choice, Montelpulciano, due to its overwhelming preponderance in a number of Adriatic coastal fronting regions and DOC’s (if not always of great quality), versatility from Rosato to Red, and even sparkling, pretty wide availability in Europe and the US, and its widening growth in Australian vineyards and in California to a lesser degree. Considering the effects of climate change, even with deference to some of its problems from a grower’s POV, Montepulciano offers a solid, dependable and adaptable choice for making good to fine wines with a lot of the characteristics that consumers enjoy in a red wine.

Montepulciano has potential to make grand wines, but importantly, generally very solid wines at moderate prices, so a wider appeal in the market, and thus to wine lovers who (still) don’t consider $35+ wines “solid everyday wines”, as one consumer publication recently wrote (I sure don’t!). Even today, there are a number of wines made from this cultivar, of which there are many clones or biotypes which can be found for around $10-12. I won’t say caveat emptor assuredly, but spending even a couple of bucks more will make you happier.

Wonderfully graphic wine map of Italy, created ca. 1977 by ICE, Italian Trade & Investment Agency, here showing the main areas of production for the varieties mentioned in this article. (JBMW) Many changes since this map was created, but much is still the same!

MONTEPULCIANO

Firstly, let’s dispense with the troubling confusion caused by the fact that there is a famous Tuscan hill town, Montepulciano, home to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, and the Montepulciano cultivar. The latter is not used in the former, which is made primarily from Tuscany’s great Sangiovese grape. Please do not confuse the two!

As my friend and great writer on Italian wines Ian d’Agata notes in his book on Native Italian Grapes (2014) and wines:

“Montepulciano is a beloved grape variety in Italy, and its wines run the gamut from the cheap and cheerful (and at times horrid) to the extremely fleshy and fruity and hopelessly overoaked and undrinkable. So though generally a workhorse grape, Montepulciano has thoroughbred potential: the problem is harnessing that potential and turning it into great wine.”-D'Agata, Ian. Native Wine Grapes of Italy (p. 345). University of California Press. Kindle Edition.

I cannot say it any better; that is what makes this deeply colored, intensely regional (though now more widely planted) and strongly flavorful grape so important to consider. In earlier considerations of its origins, it was often confused with Sangiovese, however, yet when you compare the wines made from one or the other, the structure of the wines (tensile, slightly astringent, higher acid, firmer tannins of Sangiovese vs. the suppler, rounder if still astringent tannins and fleshier nature of Montepulciano), and color (medium ruby even garnet of Sangiovese vs. the darker ruby purple or black of Montepulciano) plus other differences apparent with time, it is hard to confuse the two. Many ampelographers still believe that the grape did originate in Tuscana, three to four centuries ago, but simply don’t know exactly where, or how it got to Abruzzo, and early ampelographers often confused it with Sangiovese.

Yet, as d’Agata pithily points out: “Unfortunately, Montepulciano has always been confused with Sangiovese: as recently as the beginning of the twentieth century, all of Italy’s most important ampelographers failed to distinguish between the two varieties. Which is strange, because Michele Torcia (1793) wrote of the grape as clearly different from Sangiovese, describing its presence in Abruzzo more than two centuries ago;…/” (See below for reasons why)

Today, most experts agree that it developed in the Abruzzo, probably around the mountain town of Sulmona. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC is the most prevalent version of the grape we know in most markets, where it makes up a majority of the vines planted. For a variety that is somewhat temperamental in the vineyard (like zinfandel among others, it ripens unevenly even within the same bunch), late ripening (so warm vintages can often show attenuated bitter tannins as sugar accumulates faster than the tannins mature), and due to susceptibility to powdery mildew and easily over-productive, it’s a wonder Montepulciano is so popular (with producers). Consumers? It’s easy!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montepulciano_(grape)

Yet, it is popular. And not only for red wine. Due to its deep stable color pigments, high in Malvidin and so different from the less stable red pigments in Sangiovese, many producers in Abruzzo easily produce fine rosato wines. The best are labeled Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, made by ‘bleeding’ off some of the juice from fermenting red wines, which tend to be darker in color, sometimes like a light red wine, and that are excellent complements to hearty fare and fine charcuterie.

As for the red wines, Montepulciano can be a generous yielder, especially on lower warmer sites, the result being quaffable, full colored, medium-full bodied and fruity dry wines that for the price can be hard to beat. Of late, however, I have noted that too many producers have taken the approach that if a little is good a lot is better. As opposed to Sangiovese, Montepulciano’s acidity is lower, and the tannins softer, though that could be more attributable to the warmer climate and winemaking protocols.

Significantly reducing yields, doing longer macerations, and picking much later along with aging the wine in new oak barrels has resulted (too often!) in ungainly, high alcohol hard-edged wines where the charming deep, plummy, black fruit flavors are steam-rollered. This doesn’t work very well, at least in lower warmer sites with richer soils, where the wines can be somewhat soupy and generic.

Another aspect about Montepulciano wines I should note, and which producers are well aware of is that like Syrah, Montepulciano has a tendency to reduction during fermentation and early maturation. This leads to sometimes ‘tanky’, dried herbs and earthy aromas, thus requiring a lot of aeration in its early phases. (By the way, while both Syrah and Montepulciano are dark-skinned strong and aromatic varieties, they are not related).

While no one wants a harvest season plagued by rain, the flipside of that scenario is a too early harvest due to lots of heat advancing the ripeness of the fruit before the seeds are brown and the skin tannins are still ‘green’. I have found over the years a number of less expensive Montepulciano d’Abruzzos that show an astringency and hollow-ness even when the color is sound and the aromas pleasing, due to this situation.

Today, the Abruzzo DOC has several sub-DOC (G)’s as producers, critics and the authorities have identified serious differences based upon altitude, exposure, distance from the sea and soils. Much of the area is primarily based upon clay soils, enhanced or conditioned by sand and gravels. Without going into the minutiae, the two DOCg’s of Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Terre Tollesi (see map below, courtesy of Federdoc) enjoy more clay-based soils and slightly higher cooler elevation, which Montepulciano seems to prefer, and where the geology is more homogenous; there is a rational ‘there’ there, based upon the soil geology and altitude, being higher and thus cooler. Quality potential is enhanced, therefore, in theory, if not always in fact.

Lesser vineyards on the lower slopes and the plain running to the east and the Adriatic Sea, where Pescara is located, tend to produce more amiable, high volume and less dense wines which are also cheaper. But much of the Abruzzo is rugged terrain interspersed with valleys and streams leading out to the plains closer to the sea. many of the better vineyards are between 200-450 meters above sea level, as noted around some of the more important production zones centered on the towns of Teramo, Loreto Aprutino, Chieti and Ascoli Piceno in the Marche, among others. (See maps below-circled in red)

Given that the Abruzzo DOC, and those of Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno DOC in the Marche region just to the north are located on the eastern edges of the high Appenine Mountains, including Italy’s Gran Sasso (>9000’ elevation) the region is overall fairly dry on the lee side of the mountains, but significantly influenced by the marine on-shore flow which can create a more humid environment especially around the lower altitude vineyards.

There are hundreds of producers of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and here in the US, we see a wide number. Prices vary tremendously. The rarest and most famous, that of Eduardo Valentini, is a bit of a unicorn. If you find it (wine-searcher.com), it will set you back close to three Ben Franklins ($300). I haven’t tasted a bottle of it since the 1995, drunk in 2009 or so. It was all that its reputation exalts and is sui generis. Similarly, the Montepulciano’s of Emidio Pepe are rare, and pricy if somewhat less so than Valentini. My experience with Pepe goes back decades, but not recently. I was not impressed with vintages in the 1960-1990 period, as many of the wines showed faults, like brettannomyces. I understand the new generation in charge has cleaned things up, for surely the vineyards do produce fine concentrated fruit.

Mature Montepulciano vines in a hillside vineyard near Chieti, Abruzzo

But for wines in the low-teen’s to high $20’s, among my favorites in a richer but more approachable style are those from Tiberio, Masciarelli’s Marina Cvetic (including their Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Rosato), Cataldi Madonna, Filomusi Guelfi, Barone, Cornacchia, La Valentina & Zaccagnini. In Le Marche, among my favorite Rosso Coneros at similar prices that contain a reasonable amount (>50%) of Montepulciano are those from Umani Ronchi (who also make Montepulciano d’Abruzzo) and Garofoli; Rosso Piceno’s from Bucci, Boccadigabbia & Tenuta Tavignano.

Less expensive ($8-12), but still tasty are the Montepulcianos from Vigneto del Sole, Illuminati, La Quercia, Farnese & Cantina Tollo. Don’t expect fireworks, but even those show the charm and overt friendliness of Montepulciano and its versatility at the table.

To gain a sense of what’s out there in the market now, I did some shopping, which led to the notes below. By no means thorough, this selection found in a couple of fine wine stores and supermarkets here in the Seattle area range from cheap and cheerful to somewhat more serious. Many of these are available nationally. As always, consult Wine-searcher.com for comparative pricing.

What this short tasting demonstrates is that Montepulciano (d’Abruzzo) produces enjoyable, moderately rich and personable wines across a wide price spectrum, and show fine versatility at the table. I recommend tasting a variety of wines- prices (other than a few noted above) are not a deterrent to enjoyment! Bonus points~ all of these wines showed a distinctly ‘Italianate’ fine fruit yet tensile structure, so different from any other country; at least US West Coast, Argentina, Australia and even France. This isn’t a criticism of those places, merely an observation that so many Italian wines share a structural character. (Discuss!)

WINES

Montepulciano (d’Abruzzo) does NOT lack for color intensity, as this lineup attests! (JBMW)

Casa Vinicola Gioacchino Garofoli 2024 Komaros Rosato di Marche, Rosato di Marche IGT Komaros = Greek name for Monte Conero. Pale salmon pink tailing to yellow-clear. Ingratiating bouquet redolent of light herbs dried (tarragon, sage?) then more floral, citrus blossom (lime,lemon). Light body, very fresh, yet flavorful palate with mint, meyer lemon and orange flavors, a hint of cranberry, too, given the fine acidity in balance with the sweet fruit. Well done. Now-2025. NOT Cerasuolo, but shows the versatility of Montepulciano prettily. 12% ** $15

Az ag Jasci Donatello 2024 Atilia organic Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo DOC Montepulciano

Strong cherry raspberry fruit. Lightly firm, good acidity with some fine tannin crunch and no Jolly Rancher confected sweet notes. Good crunch and enough acid but still rounder and richer. Pretty classic version! Fine quality and intensity, well-demonstrating the style, focus and richer style of this distinct form of rosato wine" 13.50% ** $22/1 liter

Cantina Cirelli 2024 Vino Biologico (Montepulciano) Chieti, Vino d"Abruzzo Medium ruby. solid rich berry dark plum cherry and anise or quinine notes. Light chewy finish, fine tannins, ok acid. Nice grapy notes-eqsy forward, appealing but not too simple nor gloppy *+" 12.00% *+ $16

Grand Casato Fratelli Cozza 2023 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Dark purple ruby, near opaque. Savory, dark earthy, black plum and quite ripe blackberry with a hint of warm stones in nose. Maybe a touch of overripe or cooked fruit? Medium full body. Solid dark cherry--plummy flavors, moderate to light tannins with good acidity to keep it reasonably fresh. Slightly medicinal finish. Not much real style, but perfectly ok for drinking sooner with richer dishes. Now-2026. 13% * $15

Collegiata 2023 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Dark ruby, less dense than above. Some warm brick or stone aromas, but also more floral-herbal (dried) notes-not and not as dense. Solid plum, fresher palate with medium body. Firmer, if still minor tannins carrying into finish with good acidity freshness. Quite a peasant wine, nothing special, but good anise notes, moderately long finish. GV. Now-2026. 12.5% * $10

La Quercia 2022 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Dark purple ruby, near opaque. Odd at first earthy funky aromas, perhaps some brett? Almost wooly scent. Aeration helps. Crunchier, firmer structure to above with firming tannins, good acidity and more linear, black plum, licorice flavors and a hint of earth in finish. A more forceful, lengthier wine, though not as particularly bright or 'relaxed'. The mint-violet-peony-like aromatics gain strength in nose with aeration, so worth a second look. GV Now-2028 13.5 % *+ $13

Agricola Tiberio 2021 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Dark purple ruby, near opaque. Deep resonant black plum black berry hint of anise , violet or cassis-mint (some oak?) bouquet; most complete nose of first four. Medium plus body. Round tannins but present and solid freshness. Good black licorice, even bitter chocolate on finish. Moderately chewy texture and solid freshness. This has both intensity and some refinement. Chewy, long finish. Needs some time but very solid now Now-2030 14% ** $21

Az. Ag. Talmonti 2017 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Tre Saggi (three wise men) Dark ruby near opaque, hint purple. Splashy stony, savory tobacco, black plum, maturing bouquet but still showing youthful freshness and spice. Full body. Dense graphite-cedar, black plum and roasted blackberry flavors. Excellent definition with tannins harmonizing with fruit and acid holding it all together. Rich, , cigar box focus and length to finish. This is evolving beautifully and shows real class and definition for the DOC. There's a lovely raspberry fruit sweetness on finish with a hint of balsamic adding complexity. GV. Now-2028 13.50% **+ $17-21

La Vakentina 2023 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Almost same as above in color. Fine, fresh, more forward black fruit, plum, herbal anise aromas. Ripe sweet black cherry, violet or licorice flavors, a touch of sweetness too, though don't think it is sugar so much as young primary grapy fruit!. No oak to speak of (unlike sibling Spelt below). Moderate tannins, round finish, sweet cherry finish. Fine, fruit, Solid basic Montepulciano, showing more finesse than La Quercia, more fruit and length. GV Now-2027. 13.5% ** $15-18

La Valentina 2022 Spelt Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Dark ruby, near opaque but less purple. Aged in barrique and large oak vats for 18 months, and a selection of top fruit from vineyards. Supple, medium plus body flavors. Less overt tannins than in Talmonti or Tiberio, though still lending good framework for the rich fruitiness. Dark macerated cherry, some plum, combined with bitter chocolate and anise aromas lead into fine, lifted flavors where acidity and not tannin provide fine counterpoint to the ripe red fruit/dark plum flavors. Good length, though seems to be a somewhat less fine year, given the acidity on finish. That said, this shows finesse, fruit and good balance for drinking NOw-2028 14% ** $23

Masciarelli 2022 Estate Bottled Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Dark ruby, but more advanced; no purple to rim. Very classic, dark plum, black fruit/anise, mint-medicinal savory, almost balsamic bouquet, suggesting a touch of VA, but very minor. Firm focused flavors-good tannins, lightly edgy acid frame the grippy black fruit flavors. Moderately chewy finish and somewhat edgy acid suggest phenolic maturity not quite ripe (too warm a year, maturation interrupted? Perhaps a bit too extracted, therefore? Finishes slightly short. Now-2028 13.50% * $16