GRÜVE, RIESLING & FRIENDS-TOP NEW OFFERINGS FROM GERMANY & AUSTRIA
Joel Butler MW 2.37 6.28.2024
The recent tasting of a large group of German and Austrian wines made by some notable producers, (several of whom I know well) begged for my attention and write-up. These folks make some of the greatest, age-worthy wines in the world. Several of the winemaker/owners were present which made this a much rarer occurrence in Seattle. Among the ‘gold standard’ historic producers like Nikolaihof in Austria and Dönnhoff & Selbach-Oster from Germany, there were also a couple of newer younger, exciting new producers (at least for me!) like Phillip Kettern in Germany.
No wines tasted were less than Very good-far more were excellent (**) to Outstanding (***). This came as no surprise to me, since Riesling from both Germany and Austria, and Grüner Veltliner (GrüVe to those in the know!) in Austria yield among the finest and longest-lived wines on the planet, as well as being among the most versatile wines at the table. Most of the wines noted below will age a minimum of 10 years, improving and deepening in character. Several will gain complexity for at least 30 years more. That’s how fine Riesling rolls!
But why is it that much as I and others trumpet their virtues, June Q Public doesn’t seem to ‘get it’? These can be gloriously expressive, deeply flavorful yet ethereally light and easy wines to drink that dance across the palate, demanding your attention even as they bring a smile to your face. How can some of these wines, with alcohol levels often below 10% and high dry extract levels, be so intense yet graceful?
Are we professionals just crazy? Are we so clueless about what most wine-drinkers like yet we continue to preach the glories of these two great varieties of Germanic origin? Probably yes to both questions! Yet once again, anyone who makes the effort to drink these wines, and those of other high-level producers, will be rewarded. More and more German producers’ wines are being made in a dry (trocken), or half-dry (halb-trocken/HT) style. If one subscribes to the worn cliché of “I don’t drink sweet”, or “All Rieslings are sweet, so I won’t drink them”, you will be surprised by many of these dry concentrated yet lithe wines.
Here are some considerations which may help you appreciate & understand these wonderful wines, made by serious small producers. They are highly concerned with maintaining their heritage and preserving their land via organic and sustainable farming practices.
Some slopes are as steep as 60% inclination. You will note that some of the wines below are not inexpensive. If you consider that manually farming these slopes, better suited to a mountain goat, and yields which can be low given the poor soils, very selective harvesting protocols and high number of old vines in the best sites (see below), then do not begrudge the producers for trying to make a little profit from his hard labor. Put another way, the cost of making a $100 bottle of Riesling or GrüVe from a top class vineyard (see below) is generally much higher than even a Grand Cru White Burgundy or Napa Cabernet, especially when you discount the inflated land prices that have made those areas often grossly overpriced.
Global warming has helped in some ways to allow for riper grapes which make it easier to produce dry wines, the essential style in Germany prior to World War II for Rieslings. One can no longer make the case that German Rieslings especially are unsuited to the dinner table due to their sweetness.
Even those wines German wines which are noted as ‘fruity styles’, typically denoted as Kabinett or Spätlese (late-pick) and generally with less than 9-10% alcohol, are so finely balanced by ripe acidity that they don’t taste that sweet, and are ideal with spicier foods (East Asian, central American).
One should also note that almost all Austrian Rieslings and GrüVes are made dry, between 11.5-14% alcohol, befitting a somewhat warmer though still ‘cool-climate’ environment.
Finally, a word on nomenclature. Top level German DRY wines from single excellent to great vineyards are labeled with the words Grosse Gewächs/Lage (GG) or Erste Lage; Austria has adopted a similar nomenclature for wines from top sites, such as Ried Spiegel 1 ÖTW- where Ried means vineyard and the latter word and number refers to its qualitative ranking (at least for members wines of the OTW; Austrian Traditional Wine Producers).
Both the 2022 and 2023 vintages featured here are both very good at least, and at the top level some truly great wines were made, but one does have to choose more carefully, compared to some past vintages like 2019 and 2015. Fortunately, the producers noted below are among the very best in their respective countries. In the interest of space concerns, I am just selecting 3-4 wines from each producer.
NOTES ON SELECTED WINES (, Alcohol % shown, *-*** quality evaluation, Prices noted are approximate retail)
WEINGUT SELBACH OSTER, ZELTINGEN
2023 Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett Mosel Now owned by Johannes Selbach, who was asked by the Merkelbach brothers before their passing to take over and manage their tiny property. Red sandstone & slate/ stony soils yield a fresh, spicy, red currant, clove-y spice and mineral bouquet. Delicious fruit and spicy finish lifted by scintillating acid, and saline notes with pretty dry finish. Maybe 3-3.5%RS (JS?) Now-2040 8.5% **+ $55
2022 Selbach Oster Zeltingen Sonnenuhr Riesling GG Mosel Medium green gold. Less salty, more appley-fruity notes to Alte Reben below. Softer, fuller, more lees-mineral notes on finish. Richer mid-palate if less incisive though dry finish. Strong yet refined Now-2032 12.5% **(+) $92
2022 Selbach Oster Zeltingen Alte Reben Riesling TrockenMosel Medium green gold. Deeper, saline, even sotolon-inflected (curry-cumin-salty) minerally bouquet-wonderful! Rich fruit balanced by fine acidity and long focused finish. Real 'drive' here. Blend of fruit from different GG vineyards. Now-2033 11.5% **+ $66
2022 Selbach Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Rotlay Riesling. Auslese Mosel Technically a Beerenauslese (BA), 12.5% RS. 2022 was a low botrytis year, so this beauty reveals more passerillé dried raisin fruit (JS,JB). Medium gold-green reflex in color Ripe, honey, dried apricot-quince bouquet. Refined yet rich depth of fruit. Great, sun-rich flavors with light nuttiness, fine extract, deep honey-quince dried peach fruit accents on finish. Great wine! Block picked to get the mix of fruit needed to showcase the vineyard and less the effect of late harvest. Now-2045 7.5% *** $120
Classic rocks/soil of the Mosel-(L-R) Blue Slate, Grey Slate (typical of Zeltingen/Wehlen top vineyards, & red sandstone of Ürzig & Erden top sites (JBMW)
WEINGUT DÖNNHOFF, OBERHAUS, NAHE
All of these Dönnhoff 23's are bottled cask samples--probably bottled or soon to be as of the next week/end June according to the winery
Among the richest & sleekest fine wines in the world, Dönnhoff’s wines (Papa Helmut, son Cornelius) are benchmark Nahe wines, fastidiously farmed, with low yields and ambient yeasts, and the top wines aged in large traditional casks. The family has owned vineyards for over three centuries. One of Germany’s finest addresses for dry and fruitier Prädikat wines.
Dönnhoff 2023 Tonnschiefer Trocken Nahe Riesling Stonier and richer flavors with more structure and a real saline intensity to finish than most basic Nahe rieslings. Always worth the extra $$!. Now-2032 12.8-13% ** $45
Dönnhoff 2023 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Trocken Nahe Riesling Red sandstone. Fruity, more fresh crisp acidity and lemony finish! Fine length and balance with hints of currant along with strong lemon-sherbet accents. Deliciously dry. Now-2037 12.8-13% **+ $76
Dönnhoff 2023 Hermannshöhle GG Nahe Riesling Great deep flavors. Slate, sandstone, limestone geology. 8 months aging on full and fine lees, 75+ year old vines. All fermented/aged as most Dönnhoff GG/pradikatsweins are, in well aged local oak 10-24hl casks. Richer fruit even yet, but more slate-mineral stony than currant as in Höllenpfad above, More extract and near salty density too. Powerful focused yet still so elegant. Now-2042+ 12.8-13% *** $170
Dönnhoff 2023 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett Nahe Riesling Fresh pine, ripe apple bouquet. Piquant, currant flavors with light floral (gardenia, elderflower??) notes. Elegantly balanced with fresh acidity against moderate 4%+- RS. Very expressive and poised. Good Value. Now-2040 9% **+ $54
WEINGUT KETTERN, PIESPORT
A young winery which has embraced some low-tech approaches to making wine from key steep-slope vineyards around Piesport and nearby Leiwen. The name Fio means ‘thread’ in Portuguese. The estate is a joint venture connecting two families: the Kettern family, who have been making wine in the Mosel for several hundred years, and the Niepoort family, led by famed Portuguese winemaker, Dirk Niepoort. While “Natural” wines in practice, these are also quite cleanly made, with little SO2 added, organic farming, natural ferments with ambient yeasts, old vines and longer aging in cask before bottling. Hip and tasty!
Kettern (Piesport) nv Fio NatCool Riesling Mosel Riesling A 2020-21 blend. Very crisp fragrant apple and firm mineral flavors; lively and fresh, even spicy. Pretty good, dry, clean and bright and less $$ Now-2025 12% **- $36
Kettern (Piesport) 2020 Fio Rätzelhaft Riesling Trocken Mosel Riesling From Piesport. Yellow green gold. Dried apricot honey nut and lees nose and flavors. Solid freshness and length with distinctive firm stony finish; as if there was a touch of flor yeast. Now-2032 11% ** $33
NIKOLAIHOF, MAUTERN Wachau, AUSTRIA
The Saahs Family are the custodians of one of the oldest wineries in the world, with cellars dating back to the 8th-9th century, and one of the first Biodynamic certified wineries in the world beginning in 1971. Their wines are painstakingly made, using traditional old casks for long aging, low yields and fruit from some of the top sites along the Danube River in the picturesque Wachau appellation.
Nikolaihof 2022 Zwick Grüner Veltliner Wachau Bottled unfiltered. More mandarin fruit aromas and solid acidity with quince, herbs and less earthy flavors. Lengthier finish and better value and definition to their similarly priced HefAbzug GruVe also tasted. Much better value, therefore. Now-2030 11.5% **- $52
Nikolaihof 2019 Im Weingebirge Smaragd Grüner Veltliner Wachau Aged 3.5 years in cask, bottled 9/23. In the Wachau District smaragd designates wines made from the ripest grapes, often well into October, and generally the top level dry wines from the best vineyards and minimum alcohol 12.5%. Smaragd (Emerald) is the name given to the lovely little green lizards that like to sun themselves on the rocky slopes of vineyards. Greater length/structure of course, with strong nutty-herbal-mineral palate, fine acid, elegant lees accents and deep, broad but fresh flavors. Highly structured, solid extract. Great stuff! Now-2035 13.5% *** $125
Nikolaihof 2022 Federspiel Riesling Wachau Riesling Federspiel denotes a Wachau wine made from earlier picked, or at least lower sugar grapes and alcohol level maximum of 12.5%. Floral, spicy aromas with less overt earthy notes compared to GruVE above. Stonier finish with elegan fresh finely spicy-mineral fruit intensity firm acidity and very linear finish. Now-2032 11.5% ** $52
Nikolaihof 2019 Vom Stein Smaragd Riesling Wachau 3.5 years aging in cask, bottled 9/23. Quite concentrated, nuttier, deeper bouquet to Riesling above, with rocky, stony flavors and a richer fruitier finish. Greater finesse than smaragd GruVe made similarly above. Superb, if expensive. Archetypal Austrian dry Riesling! Now-2035 13% *** $135
WEINGUT OTT, FEUERSBRUNN, WAGRAM
Bernhard Ott has taken his family’s 130 year old domaine to new levels of quality in the last 30 years. He now farms biodynamically, ages almost all wines in cask and leaves them in cask on their lees for up to 10 months and lowered yields, all in attempt to maximize the inherent character of his varied loess-based vineyards that especially favor Grüner Veltliner: the 1 ÖTW (first growth) vineyards of Spiegel, Rosenberg and Stein. The results are overall highly detailed, expressive and often quite rich (for their type) wines with strong mineral notes and firm acidity to age well.
Weingut Ott 2023 ‘Am Berg’ Grüner Veltliner Wagram Fresh lively fruit, nutty but also herby palate. Good acid for GruVe and fine finish. Now-2028 12% **$37
Weingut Ott 2023 Der Ott Grüner Veltliner Wagram Much richer floral-spicy even mineral-stony nose, a peacock's tail of variegated flavors on palate as well. Long finish, more extract. Cask sample to be bottled this week. Very fine and detailed. Now-2032. Expensive, but …? 12.5% **+ $78
Weingut Ott 2021 Ried Stein 1 ÖTW Grüner Veltliner Wagram Loess and granite soils. Deeper minerally, nutty nose with floral, lily or jasmine accents. Fine depth, more length if less crisp acidity to above, but better extract and even more depth of rich umami-earthiness! Now-2035 13% **+/*** $130
Weingut Ott 2021 Ried Rosenberg 1 ÖTW Grüner Veltliner Wagram 75 year old vines on 20m deep loess, Aged 20 months in 7hl casks & bottled 8/23. Fine floral-lees, stony bouquet with almost creamy vanilla palate. Fine depth, medium full body, good balance with acidity and saline, vibrant lift on finish which adds some delicacy to the stoniness. Terrific expression of GruVe on Loess!. Now-2034 13% ***- $144
WEINGUT SETZER, HOHENWARTH, WEINVIERTEL
Hans Setzer and his wife, Uli now run this 75 acre family domaine, founded in 1705 in the Weinviertel wine-growing District, Austria’s largest, which extends north of Wagram and Kamptal to the Czech border. It is a region of rolling hills, at somewhat higher altitudes (350-500 meters) as well, so a bit cooler and justly well-known for its spicy, even pepper Grüner Veltliners. FYI “DAC” DAC stands for “Districtus Austriae Controllatus”, an EU-protected designation of origin for Austrian quality wine. A Weinviertel DAC is a Grüner Veltliner quality wine from the Weinviertel that has passed a blind tasting and was judged by an independent wine commission to express typical regional character.” Setzer also makes deliciously drinkable red wines from Austria’s unique Zweigelt grape.
Hans Setzer 2023 Ausstich Grüner Veltliner Weinviertel DAC Ausstich means ‘sticks out’. Vibrant, fresh, strong citrus, minerally and light lees nutty bouquet. Lively, fresh flavors with excellent focus and more stony finish. Very nice and very typical GruVe! Only too easy to drink young but will hold, too. Now-2028 12.5% ** $30
Hans Setzer 2022 Ried Laa '8000' Reserve Grüner Veltliner Weinviertel DAC ‘8000’ vines/ha. Planted on chalky soils 20+ years ago. Great mineral focus and more ferrous spicy aromas compared with above. More length, concentration and stronger personality and fuller fruit to Ausstich. Should age very well and has excellent intensity and finesse. Now-2032 13.5% **+ $54
Hans Setzer 2023 Zweigelt Weinviertel Fine ruby violet. Earth, blackberry, some anise and dried herbs perfume the bouquet. Fine finish, pretty good weight and depth. Crunchy flavors lively fruit and round tannins with dark red fruit (raspberry?) predominate. Perhaps lacking some of the weight shown by Glatzer's below, nonetheless a fine, playful but generous wine. Now-2028 13% **- $48
WEINGUT GLATZER, Göttlesbrunn CARNUNTUM
Walter Glatzer founded his estate in 1987 in the heart of Carnuntum, southeast of Vienna, a region the Romans recognized for its equitable climate 2000 years ago and ideal for wine, grown on mostly loess soils. Walter’s son, Matias and daughter, Hanna, now assist in farming over 100 acres mostly red grapes, but also Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Blanc. They have become justly renown for the deeply flavorful, yet not over-extracted red wines, especially Zweigelt.
Glatzer 2023 Grüner Veltliner ‘Dornenvogel’ Carnuntum Stonier, lees-inflected bouquet with pretty floral notes. Good acid and length. Moderately full bodied for GruVe. Fresh & stylish, some finesse. Now-2029 14% ** $36
Glatzer 2022 Blaufränkisch DAC Carnuntum Medium dark ruby, no garnet. Slightly herby, cassis-graphite-lite bouquet. Elegant and fresh yet fleshy with soft tannins, rich, dark fruit flavors and even some class and poise. Fresh and delicious even now. This is solid wine! Now-2028 Good Value 13% ** $36
Glatzer 2022 Dornenvogel Zweigelt DAC Carnuntum Glatzer’s top Zweigelt selected from the best sites and older vines and aged in 20% new oak barrels. Solid deep ruby-violet color. Strong, herbal-berry, earthy dark cherry bouquet. Dense and long finish with fine tannins and lovely blue/black fruit on finish. Good weight, medium acidity. More integrated and distinctly more complete/complex than the Setzer above, as it was made in a more ambitious style. Now-2033 13.5% **(+) $50