Thirteen years ago, as the Arab Spring was transitioning to the Arab Summer throughout the Middle East and North Africa, I embarked upon four months of intensive travel and research in the Levant, Turkey and Georgia preparing the text for our book Divine Vintage: Following the Wine Trail from Genesis to the Modern Age. For political reasons and timing to coincide with harvest, I initially flew to Beirut, Lebanon. My next stops would be Jordan, then Israel, Turkey and Georgia.
As Lebanon and Israel do not have diplomatic relations, I eventually went to Israel via the crossing from Jordan to Israel at Bet Shean near the Sea of Galilee, without a Lebanese exit stamp in my passport (they will do this for foreigners on a separate piece of paper- Israeli customs just ‘winks’ since they understand the situation.) And yes, even though I was recognizably a ‘Yankee’, I was thoroughly searched (courteously) at the border crossing.
Spending about two weeks in Lebanon visiting the amazing and ancient vineyard areas first in the Beka’a Valley, where my main contact and now good friend Joe Touma of Clos St Thomas winery was based, I came to appreciate more clearly why Lebanon is one of the most important wine-producing regions for millennia, extending back 6000 years approximately. It is no accident that the largest temple complex that the Romans built, at Baalbek in the Beka’a Valley, holds one of the greatest temples built to the god of Wine, Dionysos, along with Jupiter. Wine was central to the region’s importance, economically and culturally.
My initial plan was after visits in the Beka’a, I would drive into Syria and visit the two wineries there to complete my research. But…two visiting diplomats from the US Embassy in Damascus who came to Clos St Thomas for harvest celebrations told me: “Do not even consider crossing the border to Syria, even though Damascus is still safe and only a 45 minute drive. Things are really heating up in the country, and where you want to go, there is now fighting and chaos” Wise advice. I took it, though disappointed.
So, I went up to the Batroun Mountains further north on the coast above Byblos. After I got the requisite passes via Joe Touma’s contacts to visit the few vineyards and wineries in south Lebanon, I (fortunately) passed through a gauntlet of Hezbollah checkpoints to arrive at the vineyards around Jezzine on steep terraces, some dating back two millennia. Then, running more Hezbollah checkpoints with their suspicious soldiers, I visited the ancient seaport of Tyre, from whence the Phoenicians set sail to colonize the Mediterranean with ample supplies of vines and wine. The Phoenicians are likely responsible for giving the West an alphabet, and to whom we can attribute at least one origin for the god who became known as Dionysos. One easily could imagine just how important ‘the’ Lebanon’ was for millennia as a major wine influencer, one which spread its seeds far and wide.
After Tyre, I returned to visit a then new-ish winery and vineyard high on the lower flank of Mt Lebanon in the village of Bhamdoun, midway between Beirut and the Beka’a Valley’s gateway city of Chtoura; Chateau Belle-Vue. I had heard nothing but good things about it. Their winemaker was one of the first and only women winemakers in Lebanon, Diane Salama, who is still the winemaker 20 years or so after their first vintage.
Chateau Belle-Vue, as I soon learned from the owners and now solid friends, Naji and Jill Boutros, has a tortured history, yet as became apparent in 2011, and more so today, it is a choice example of the Lebanese sense of community and their profound resilience to the forces of war, economic hardships and religious enmity that plague this small beautiful country. It also reveals a profound empathy by the Boutros Family to heal the wounds caused by decades of war and civil strife, to bring back together a place which prior to the Civil War, was a peaceful, prosperous town where all sorts of people lived in relative harmony.
Naji Boutros grew up in this town, Bhamdoun, which for many decades, even today, served as both a weekend escape ‘resort’ from the heat of Beirut and the Beka’a Valley for many of their better-off citizens. Bhamadoun’s district had been famous for centuries for its vineyards and other crops, planted on terraced hillsides buttressed by local stone walls. Naji’s great grandfather had built a fine hotel in the village, Hotel Belle-Vue, which became for him, a veritable playground and later, training center to learn about business, the intricate connection to the countryside between farmers, merchants and the local community. The town population was overall, successful amalgam of Christian (Maronite), Muslim and Druze citizens.
Boutros, after high school went overseas to study engineering at Notre Dame, and pleasant surprise to me, obtained his Master’s degree at my alma mater, Stanford University, where over the years we have seen each other for the annual Stanford Alumni Wine Judging.
In 1975, Lebanon’s civil war began (1975-1990), and Boutros’ family had to close the hotel, which became the family’s residence. Lebanon, we should remember, had been a protectorate of the French for nearly half a century until independence, and thus there was continuity with a wine culture that extended 6000 years previously. During the French colonial period and subsequently, the majority of vineyards for wine were planted in the Beka’a Valley to French imported varieties like Cabernet, Syrah, Carignan, while only a few small farmers and very traditional old growers persisted with some of the myriad local varieties, such as Merwah, Obadeih, Miksasi and others.
Most of the vineyards in Lebanon were for table grapes, given the Muslim/Ottoman influence for centuries prior to the French. French vignerons earlier in the 20th century had decided that the local varieties would never make good wine, so they brought theirs in. There were already established in the Beka’a Valley Chateau Ksara, founded in 1857 by Jesuit monks, followed by the Brun family at Domaine des Tourelles (still excellent wines), and famously the Hochar family in Ghazir near Beirut who created their Chateau Musar in the 20’s; quite famous then and now, but atypical of most Lebanese wines, even though most of their vineyards are in the same Beka’a Valley as many others.
Many of us may remember the parallel conflicts between Lebanon, Syria and Israel in 1982, 2000 and then 2006. The front lines at times intruded into the Beka’a Valley, Beirut was bombed, and during the 2006 war between the now-powerful Hezbollah and Israel, during the latter’s ‘incursion’, Bhamdoun itself became the front, as Israel artillery set up shop there, according to Boutros, and drew the fire of enemy artillery, effectively destroying the village. Over 500 people were killed.
Before that, in 1996, Naji had been abroad working in the USA for years. He met his wife, Jill, in Minnesota, and while living in New York and London, raising four children. Distressed by news from his family in Lebanon, he went home to visit Bhamdoun, and was dismayed by what had already happened to his community. Boutros concluded that he could make a difference by returning and helping rebuild the town. Reviving old vineyard terraces and planting new ones could be the route to the renaissance of Bhamdoun.
He and Jill moved there in 1999, and started to replant vineyards, first on the site of his grandfather’s hotel. Boutros was friends with a California winemaker who told him to plant Cabernet Sauvignon, which was already well-established in the Beka’a Valley. Then, with the aid of an older native, Joseph Khairallah, who thought Boutros was crazy, a new chapter began for the nascent vigneron. Khairallah was an experienced farmer and offered his help. As Boutros told me in 2011, Khairallah said to Naji, “No one will plant those vines but me—it’s my valley”.
What he told Boutros was not exactly news, yet nonetheless important, as they decided what varieties would be best. Bhamdoun was blessed with high elevation: From 950 to 1250 meters (3115-4100’) The Climate was a temperate Mediterranean, cold and damp in winter, hot and dry from April to October, and with ideal mineral-rich, iron-laced clay and limestone rocky soils. From the beginning, there was a commitment to Organic farming, with no irrigation after the first year.
“Our vineyards are on average about 4° C/7° F cooler than the lower elevation Beka’a Valley vineyards to the east.” The soil variations on the hillside terraces, both those old and those reconstructed, are such that higher up the geology is more calcareous, so we planted more Cabernets and our white grapes, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Lower down, there is terra rosa over the limestone, which suits Merlot and Syrah best, Boutros notes. With over 60 acres now in production, and an enlarged cellar, Chateau Belle-Vue now has the luxury to age their red wines far longer than most producers.
Current releases are from 2013, for example. On the other hand, the dry climate, (snow in winter, however), the intensive manual farming and need for wider spacing means that yields are low (<1ton/acre average) and expenses high. Vines are also low-trained on the wires, which isn’t fun for harvesters, but does mean the vines don’t have to work quite so hard managing their growth.
All this effort does mean that Chateau Belle-Vue’s wines are not inexpensive. That said, a percentage of each bottle’s sale price goes back directly to the community primarily to support education for the town’s youth. The family’s vineyards and olive groves (very good oil!) provide employment for several townspeople, too. As Boutros also noted in an interview with Culinary Backstreets a few years ago, “The lands where the grapes are grown are leased from local farmers so they can generate an income and not have to sell their land. We also try to buy a lot of the products for the restaurant from local producers.” (https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/elsewhere/beirut/2015/chateau-belle-vue/)
In my judgement, these wines are fairly priced given their fine quality and low production.
What excites me now after all these years is that Chateau Belle-Vue wines are now available in the US. The Boutros’ set up their own importing company in Jill’s home state of Minnesota, from which they can ship directly to consumers (https://chateaubelle-vue.com/shop-us/)
Moreover, they have set up distribution in several states, principally on the East and West coasts, the Mid-West and Texas. This is great news, for these wines are both high quality but also reflect a focused, ‘Lebanese’ style which highlights a fine taut framework, distinctive earthy (minerally?) yet rich fruit flavors, and in Belle-Vue’s case, a discrete sense of proportion and balanced concentration that reminds of the best wines of Bordeaux and the N. Rhone in France.
The wines reviewed below were tasted here in Seattle and purchased directly from their on-line shop and shipped from Minnesota. You can do this too! I am now more than ever excited to return to Lebanon and catch up with the changes taking place at this difficult time for Lebanon and its embattled wine producers, though I fear it will have to wait until next year. Even given the country’s difficulties, the wine community continues to improve and make distinctive wines, including more from some of the indigenous grapes that have turned out to be very good, if challenging. Chateau Belle-Vue’s wines are among the very best in Lebanon today, and showcase both the finesse and structured intensity potential of cooler, higher altitude vineyards in this Mediterranean land. They are made for the table, especially the Lebanese table, with its emphasis on fresh ingredients and robust spicing.
2021 Petit Geste Sauvignon Blanc 70% Viognier 30% ** 13% $35
Appellation: Mont Lebanon
Grown at 1100-1200 m. Whole berry fermentation of each variety separately, with ambient yeast at low temperature in inox (stainless steel) tanks (14-16° C), then married after several months aging and bottled. Medium green platinum. Beautiful pink grapefruit, floral, blood orange and lily bouquet. Medium body. Ripe spicy citrus flavors with acidity balancing some light green pear and yeasty flavors. Fine line of phenolic crunch adds length. A touch of SO² in nose needs some time to resolve, but the fruit forward character is strong enough now. Bright, intense minerally and very satisfying blend. Now -2027
2013 LA Renaissance 14.5% **(+) CS 40% MER 60% $31
Appellation: Mont Lebanon
Grapes are selected and destemmed before beginning maceration. Natural fermentation (with no yeast added) takes place during a period of 3-4 weeks in inox tanks at a controlled
temperature of 22-25ºC. When alcoholic fermentation is finished, the wine is pressed and stored until MLF is complete. The wine is then aged in French oak barrels for 24 months,
separated by varietal. Aged at least three years in the cellars before release.
Still solid ruby garnet from core to rim. Bright, floral, sour cherry lifted cedary bouquet with hint of VA. This blows off (a little) after a minute to reveal strong gamy-cedary black fruit tones like aged bordeaux with a bit of new oak graphite definition. Medium+ body. Ripe, solidly fruity if earthy mid-palate framed by moderately firm tannins and sweet, roasted berry fruit. The tannins have a savoriness backed by slight alcohol heat, yet plenty of earthy ferrous notes to balance mature a vigorou,s lightly puckery finish. Good ‘layering’, certainly dense and youthful and more 'nerveux'. Gutsier and less smooth now. Oak and Cabernet savoriness stands out even while the bouquet leans into Bordeaux Now-2032
2013 Le Chateau. **+ 14.5% CF 45% SYR 40% CS 15% $50
Appellation: Mont Lebanon
Made with similar treatments to La Renaissance, except aging is in all new French oak barrels. Cabernet Franc is grown at a higher cooler site yet, around 3700’ (1128 m). (Still deep ruby with solid core density yet. Deep, dark black fruit & black cherry bouquet with strong, earthy, graphite-mineral almost volcanic scents; tar? balsamic notes? A bit St Emilion-ish with its feral, graphite, dark black cherry fruit? Medium + body, rich mineral- ferrous and dark stone fruit flavors with moderately fine tannins still in need of a few years resolution. Good acidity lifts fruit- no sense of too much extraction and pretty good length. Good extract shows on the mid palate with fine grained tannins and core fruit knitted together with no 'sweetness', just density. Serious wine. How much better will it be given time? Very comparable to top-flight Bordeaux, yet with a wildness more Rhonish due to the savory Syrah, and bolder than either of those two styles. Now-2034
Fantastic! Thank you Joel. Fascinating!